After a fabulous night sleep (you know, that perfect storm of clean sheets, firm bed, thick comforter and just enough chill to make the comforter snuggly), we awoke to another grey day in Killarney.
After breakfasting and rugging up, we set off on what would be an epic car journey around the Ring of Kerry. This trip uses a series of roads, most named the ring of Kerry, that for a great circuit down the peninsula, along the waterfront and then back through the ranges.
We first headed over to Killorglin to “Jacks Bakery” for some provisions. We bought a rather spectacular goats cheese and sun dried tomato quiche, a picnic box of mixed salads and some fresh apple pies for a picnic lunch later in the day. We travel with a cold bag and had frozen a popper as a freezer brick to keep it all fresh.
We then headed off to Leacanauaile ring stone fort – the remains of an astonishing ringed enclosure with a number of houses inside. Like so much of the surrounding ancient architecture, this was dry stone walling atop a crag in the middle of what is now a sheep paddock. After a muddy climb we were amazed by what remains and could only guess at the special sorts of misery it must have n went to eek out an existence in this landscape, let alone live in such structures.
We then headed further along the way to view the remains of Castle Ballycarbery, a jagged and crumbling stump of battlements overlooking an estuary, then drove on to Cahersiveen for a welcome bladder break, cup of tea and the most wonderful strawberry custard crumble tarts from K and T Bakery- yum.
Ext we headed to Derryname House and found our way to the beach – a real beach with sand and surf and everything. Great if you want frostbite and to perish from hypothermia most of the year long I imagine. We headed to the estate grounds, behind the dunes and meadows and had our picnic -delicious indeed.
Next was the drive to Staigue Ring Fort, an astonishing circular battlement with an almost intact surrounding ring
It is thought the inner enclosure was tents and temporary structures but there is no real evidence of this left. We climbed up and over the battlements on well constructed dry stone steps, astonishing engineering that has stood for centuries.
Dry stone stacking is very much the thing here, most fields are fenced by it, most roads are bordered by it and it must take some skill to do as the craftsman withstands time, weather and tourists, plus looks wonderful and makes use of the locally abundant resource, making the paddocks useable by clearing it of rocks -clever.
We decided to return via the “high” road, atop the ranges that for. The southern boundary of the district. We headed to Moll’s Gap, stopping for tea and the view, then headed down the range stopping at lookouts along the way.
As part of out homeward journey, we stopped at Torc Waterfall, a magical section of mossy forest unlike anything we have ever seen. Lush green mossy trees and free flowing streams fed by a gushing waterfall. Photos do not really do this place justice.
Home after a long day on the road, wonderful sights, beautiful scenery with the weather ever changing, we went from full sun to low cloud, howling winds to gentle drizzle – 4seasons in one day.