One of many reasons we chose this apartment is the fact that we are on a “block” that gondoliers use to cruise tourists around the canals. This leg they like the acoustics and much of the day we can hear guitar, singing, piano accordion and at 4pm some douche motors past with 80s Italopop blaring. There have been some lovely voices and music so far – we shall see if it grows tiring. Fortunately we are out most days. Venice has canals, right? Lots of them. Pedestrian walkways grid the same space and cross canals via bridges, right? Lots of bridges.
Easter Sunday we were up early to head over to the Doge’s Palace for a look around. Like so many official buildings, it has a number of sides. The regal side is plush, opulent and so burdened with lavish artwork as to almost seem grotesque by today’s standards.
We walked through apartments, official meeting rooms, courts and chambers, marvelled at the extravagant use of marble, gilded wood and the glut of painted art. I was taken with some of the floors – beautifully tessellated. We also found the beginnings of the old prisons and the walkway over the Bridge of Sighs towards the newer prison areas. It was fascinating to walk the bridge we had only ever seen from the outside, at a distance, fighting tourists for a glimpse.
We had booked a “secret areas” tour which took us behind the facade to the horrific prison cells at the water line, up though hidden staircases and passages to functionary office spaces (spartan to remind them they were in “service” to the republic). Stairs and passage ways lead to the lofts and attics above the grand spaces we had explored earlier. I was amazed by the engineering of the ceiling of the largest chamber, about a soccer pitch big that was columnless. You could see the massive timbers holding up the ceilings and heavy artworks.
We finished up in the record rooms and higher class prison cells, nasty hot wooden boxes with deliberately low ceilings so it was impossible to stand upright, and torture room, reminders of more brutal past.
From the Doge’s palace, we returned to our apartment for lunch. We then ventured out again, this time heading via locations Jo had dreamed about from Brunetti’s book locations of his fictitious adventures in Venice, via the Academia Bridge (one we had not crossed last visit and, sadly, this visit is covered in scaffolding while being repaired) towards the Basilica Santa Maria della Salute where Jo surprised me with news that we were in time to hear an organ recital (a rare occurrence apparently) – such beautiful breathy notes acoustically perfect in the space.
Suitably impressed, we wended our way back to the apartment for a rest before heading out for dinner – a perfect end to a perfect day in Venice.
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