…so, having liberated 110g (dry weight) of bast fiber from a lovely bunch of Andy’s mulberry tree prunings, it was time to do something with it. I decided to use half (55g), and added it to a plastic container and added a little water to re-hydrate it.
Using the patented “AndyMallet™”, and a recently purchased Ikea bamboo chopping board wrapped in an old pillowcase, I began whacking the re-hydrated pulp using the hardwood edge of the mallet. The shaping of the mallet is perfect, so much mechanical advantage that the fiber was squished in no time.
After about 15 mins of beating, I did a “suspension test”, decided another 5mins was needed and whacked on for another 5ish minutes. BEATING fiber frays the cellulose tubes, allowing complex interlinking of adjacent fibers.
With a tub of “fluffy” beaten fiber, kept in suspension with Okra slime, it was time to try forming some sheets.
My setup was very basic, and after experimenting with the only “vat” like container I had, I abandoned the conventional “pulling” of sheets in favour of the “pour over” method as a means of testing the pulp properties.
I had a “toy” A5 frame from a paper recycling kit we have had for years but never used. It’s fundamental flow is the mould that has a weird plastic drainer over which mosquito wire lies, and is sort of held in place by the ill-fitting deckle. I decided to make a few different thicknesses on the A5 frame, couching the sheets on to fine polycotton sheeting and shiny acetate sheeting (to get a shiny/matt side divide). This “post” (stack of couched sheets) was then squished between 2 sheets of fibro, weighted with a besser block) to aid in water removal.
Resting my A3 mould and deckle over a tidy tub (which was almost perfect in size) I then formed 2 A3 sheets, again using the “pour over” method, concentrating on even coverage, and couched these onto flanellette (which, in retrospect I regret not having prepared polycotton couching cloths large enough to cover the A3 sheets) – the slightly “furry” flanellette added a rough texture to the sheets which is kind of interesting. This post of 2 sheets were then also squished between a pair of larger buts of fibro, topped with another besser brick and both posts were left to drip for half a day.
Reflecting back on the sheet formation, prior preparation prevents piss poor performance I guess. I like the flanellette as “felts” because they create managebly cost-effective padding that is pretty uniform in thickness, but I want a finer surface in contact with the pulp. I now have a bunch of suitably sized couching cloths (old sheets cut up do a great job) so the next batch will be smoother (so long as I get my shit together).
I had no idea what to expect as the sheets dried. For this batch, I open-air dried them on their base layer (the A5 sheets were all on shiny acetate sheets, the A3 sheets rested on a single layer of flanellette). Having dealt with banana fiber paper, and watching it shrink and crinkle and warp, I knew this was a possibility I guess, but … fuck around and find out, right?
To my delight, the sheets dried pretty flat, minimal warping and buckling. They also separated from their base layers really easily. In retrospect, I think I will try drying sheets next time of glass. I have the glass doors from a pair of kitchen cabinets I saved during renovation. I can also, probably couch directly onto the glass, or perform a Heimlich manouvre once I retrieve the sheets from the press – more to experiment with.
The resultant sheets are interesting. They have a “rattle” and “crackle” feel – and feel like real paper (what a stupid thing to say – remember however I am making this all up as I go). The first “barely there” sheet is as thin (or thinner) than a single layer of tissue, but it is really strong – it withstands being pulled apart – that to my tiny mind is absolutely wild. It means, I guess, if I can find a way to make the bigger sheets thinner then the resultant paper will be super strong and foldable.
From the half batch of mulberry fiber I managed to make 7xA5 sheets and 2xA3 sheets. When I refine my technique I think I can easily make 4-6 thinner A3 sheets which is pretty pleasing. If I add a blend of fibers (I currently have cotton linters, flax and Kennaf), and possibly even other botanicals, then there are lots of possibilities for interesting foldable paper.
Key learnings (read notes to self):
(1) Beat the fiber for longer. Yes it was soft and fluffy – a little more however and I can get it thinner on the frame.
(2) Get a large enough VAT that will fit my A3 frames – pulling sheets is the way to get thinner and more consistent sheets.
(3) Pre-prepare the Okra slime – it really helps but it takes time to defrost and slime up the water it is soaking in. Do not give up researching where i can get some other formation aid (like Neri)
(4) Couch onto fine polycotton, cover with polycotton then interleave with flanellete when building up post.
(5) Dry on glass, after pressing if possible (and possibly treat the glass with MC first because more crispiness is a good thing)
(6) Collect everything I need BEFORE I start, including water, containers, couching cloths and put on some music to help relax
(7) Be organised, think before you do (stray water droplets and being clumsy ruins perfectly good sheets)
(8) Accept this all takes time, and that is time mostly standing on your feet – comfortable footwear matters, as does hydration
(9) Accept that folding your own paper is possible, and getting it right is the aim.
(10) Mulberry is really strong, so may be suitable for pulp sculptures and other things – when I have lots of it I look forward to experimenting more
(11) The first batch of sheets are interesting, may be usable but at the very least are a stable form of pulp storage, meaning I can rehydrate, re-beat and incorporate them into other sheets easily so it is a win-win all round.
(12) There is a strange sense of achievement and satisfaction seeing paper emerge from raw fiber you harvested and processed yourself. Do more of that!
(13) Hand-beating is soooo satisfying, and using the AndyMallet™ is brilliant – feels so good in the hand, comfortable to use for extended periods. Hand-beating the white mulberry gave me a real FEEL for the fiber, and the ultimate control over the texture. It is much gentler on the long fibers than would be a Hollander (which uses metal blades to shear the fiber), but do not be afraid to CUT the long bast a little shorter before beating it – that will help in the sheet formation stage yet still get you lovely ropey highlights.