Henges Rock, OK

After a leisurely breakfast, we packed up lunch (a nice healthy salad and some fruit, trying to watch the calorie intake for a while) and headed out in the car into the countryside towards Avebury

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Along the way near Cherhill we saw a huge chalk horse, a petraglyph, in the side of the hill. It was still foggy, squint and you can make it out in the distance – our first ancient monument.

We headed towards West Kennet Long Barrow, an ancient burial mound made over 5000 years ago – it has been excavated and you can walk inside part of it now – just awesome, we had a brisk walk to the top of a hill beside fields of yellow rape seed crops glistening in the spring sunshine

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20120424-225532.jpg visible from here was an enormous man-made hill, Silbury Hill, I find it amusing when historians try to make sense of stuff that happened in pre-history, without any written records to back up their claims, but this stuff is awesome.

We then headed to Avebury to the site of a series of ancient stone circles

20120424-230213.jpgIn glorious sunshine, we walked the circle, coming face to face with a baffling but beautiful monument

20120424-230314.jpgIt blows my mind that this monument was here 4500 years ago, constructed then abandoned long before the Egyptians were building the pyramids. The rare privilege of getting so close to this stuff is really humbling

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We had a cup of tea, visited the museum there, which was in an oak and thatch barn a mere 300 years old (they recounted how, when leveling the site for the barn, they relocated part of one stone circle and the stones got used for building projects elsewhere). Real thatch is not something I have ever seen, I hope that skill does not die out as it really is lovely.

We then hopped back in the car, determined to see more of Salisbury Plains and next encountered a more well known stone circle – Stonehenge

20120424-231215.jpgAlthough you can no longer get up close to the stones at this henge, they are so impressive, and soooo big, your mind bends to think how it was made in the first place. The stone placement only bears casual reference to things like the seasons and the stars, and there is no actual evidence that the Druids were anywhere near it before it was abandoned by the ancients. It is interesting to speculate what, why and how but the truth is the henge and it’s connected barrows, avenues of standing stones, trenches and other artifacts are just as enigmatic to us as they have been to generations past.

20120424-231817.jpgTo me it is such a privilege to be able to visit, the sight of these ironstone monoliths standing much as they have for thousands of years, casting such interesting shadows in the sunlight will be a image I will carry with great awe and fondness.

Leaving Salisbury Plains, we headed to Cheddar Gorge for a well earned cup of tea

20120424-232157.jpg in a quaint little tea house, I also had my first “cream tea” with a cherry scone, cherry and port conserve and clotted cream – very yummy.

After deciding not to buy cheddar from the namesake, we headed back to Bath, with a slight diversion up Solsbury Hill

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The trip up was perilous, but the views of surrounding bath were amazing. An all round awesome day, wonderful weather, could not have asked for better.

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France to Bath, Transit

A day late but it we a huge day, let me explain.

We got up early to finish packing then drag them to the Eurostar terminal at Gard Nord. All according to plan, we cleared customs and were on the train back to the UK in no time. We arrived at St Pancras then dragged our stuff to Kings Cross underground and trained to Heathrow to pick up our hire car. We chose a blue Renault hatchback and spent some time getting to know where everything is, how it worked and then ate our lunch before heading into traffic. Our sat nav (plastic patsy, Joanna Lumley voiced tomtom with UK maps we purchased a few weeks earlier) was completely flat so took ages to locate satellites and get signal, but we had favorites saved and when she knew where she was we were on our way towards Bath.

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I want to say I enjoyed driving out of London, but was so glad to get into the country, even though the initial lack of speed limit signs made me nervous – patsy was saying were doing fine so we trusted her ability to navigate – in oz she was nothing but reliable, and her estimates for time have been spot on so we assumed she would cope with the ‘Mother Country’ just fine.

We planned a stop at Burford in the Cotswalds, amidst some amazing stone cottages for a tea break

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Real English tea at last (the French have no idea about tea). We wandered the town, bought a top up card for our phone and then headed to Bibury, home of the Arlington Row (apparently Britain’s most photographed semi-detached houses)

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We also popped into the local trout farm and picked up some smoked trout for dinner later, then continued through the Cotswalds towards Bathampton, our digs for the next 3 nights. The driving was amazing, the roads, OMG, narrow, perilous and surrounded by forests, stone walls and hedges – so very different to anything in oz. To be honest I loved the driving – driving along tree-canopied roads is one of my favorite things and so much of the trip was between tight hedgerows, under century old moss covered trees and interesting if pokey English lanes barely wide enough for a car.

On arriving in Bathampton, we checked in at “Wee Grange” an amazing multi level annex to a high street terrace.

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We emptied the car and headed out to a grocery store to stock our larder, then returned home to unpack. Jo organized while I made a risotto and crumbled the smoked trout through it at the last moment – so yummy after such a long and exhausting day

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Bed time without blogging that day, we were shattered from all the driving, lugging and early start but it is nice to be back on uk turf also – so much is familiar, so much wildly different.

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Rest day, let’s do lunch.

We have, quite wisely it has turned out, planned rest days where there is very little agenda. This is a great idea because we have exhausted ourselves completely in Paris, but in doing so we have seen so much and I hope got a real feel for the place.

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Today was our rest day, we catch the Eurostar early tomorrow morning then transfer to Heathrow to pickup a car for the next leg of our holiday, motoring around the UK for 3ish weeks.

I had been working on a Gnome from the table cloth of les enfants Perdus, our first night restaurant, and finished him this morning as a gift to our hosts for this brilliant apartment. I used a sliver of silver from a Jaques Genim eclair case to make a button to keep his jacket closed. I am very happy with this little chap, his posture suggests he does not understand (we are very familiar with this sentiment as, speaking a mere spattering of the language, it is easy to get completely confused if the person you are trying to communicate with has no English).

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After a breakfast of French toast, made with a lovely artisan brioche loaf we purchased a few days ago and froze for this morning, we pottered around with laundry, then decided to check out some local markets then seek a cafe for lunch.

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After a delicious salad course, Jo and I both chose boeuf bourginon and found it delicious and filling, our aim is to have a very light dinner so this worked well. A glass of Sancerre and we were back for an afternoon nap before beginning to pack for our leaving Paris tomorrow.

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We have loved Paris, and found only occasionally the language barrier to be a problem. The people are warm and hospitable, the food (when you can work out what to order) is wonderful. Such attention to detail and such artistry plating to the season and the water excellent (soft in the shower
and sweet to drink from the tap).

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The weather has been a mixture of glorious, acceptable, cold and diabolical but as some wise person once wrote, there is no such thing as bad weather, merely inappropriate clothing and that is something we have learned to appreciate as true.

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