That Other Eden

After a leisurely start, we motored in the rain to The Eden Project. We got there an hour after opening time and the car parks were empty, so we got nice and close, then walked down to the main complex.

Wow

What used to be a china clay pit has been transformed by tonnes of soil and even more tlc into a lush oasis of outside gardens and cold biomes

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We checked in the headed to the link building for morning tea – toasted tea buns (a first for us) in one of the large communal dining spaces

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We then headed into the Mediterranean biome, a sub-tropical enclosed space (the roof is made up of a hexagonal grid spanned with plastic inflated pillows, ingenious, fascinating, insulating, intriguing.

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It was nice to be warm, but the plants and integrated sculptures were fascinating. One does not get a sense of the scale of the space until you are inside it and see full sized trees dwarfed by the enclosing roof structure – just wonderful

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After wandering for a while we headed to the tropical biome and instantly felt more comfortable, temperatures just like home.

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It was interesting, there were health warnings about extreme temperatures (24 degrees C is not extreme to us) and high humidity but honestly we felt fine, peeled off layers down to shirts, nice to be so warm, it has been a while since we have been that comfortable.

The tropical biome is fascinating but we recognized most of the plants, grow many so headed up, up, up. It is staggering that you can climb to the top of the highest dome and we queued to do it, having sighted a medical disclaimer that temp extremes and exertion were not their liability – lol. We did see some pasty white people suffering however so I guess it is better to be safe than sorry.

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We wandered the gardens outside, headed to a building they call the core and went inside to play with the science things it contained- this would be a brilliant excursion, so much thought has been put into the art styling, education, carbon footprint, recyclability and green credentials here

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In the centre of the core building is a megalithic sculpture of a seed abstract – so cool

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We left Eden impressed and enjoying a temporary respite from the rain, and drove to Fowey. Locals pronounce it “foy” as in “joy” and this highlights what I think is fairly typical of Cornish names – they leave out half the letters. Example – there is a place here called Launceston – all oz people know how to pronounce that, here they pronounce it “Lawnstun”, lol. Anyways, Fowey is on the opposite peninsula to Polruan that we visited a day or so ago. It too is a town clinging for dear life to a cliff cut by the sea.

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The walk down was Olympian but we did it because we had researched a legendary Cornish cream tea place and were determined to try one (having mastered the Devon cream tea, we were keen to try the “jam first” version).

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Jo had blackcurrant and I had gooseberry, the cream was astonishingly thick but the combination delicious.

After exploring Fowey for a while, we scaled the cliff to the carpark at the top and then asked plastic patsy to take us to Polporro. Therein lay a mistake. Yee gods, that town is difficult to actually get to – the township has no parking, a one-way loop in and the most terrifyingly narrow street I have ever mistakenly driven down the wrong way. We were ready to give up and go back to Looe when we decided to try a third time to enter the town and finally found the carpark. Depends on the road you come in on it seems. We walked down to the harbour, amongst the higglety pigglety arrangements of houses clinging to the rocks of the narrow inlet

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We were looking for a legendary pub “The Blue Peter”, nestled right against the sea wall we found it, had a pint and then a wonderful meal – Jo had local crab linguini and I had fish and chips (the fish was perfect, thin tempura batter, perfectly cooked). The meals were huuuuuuge, we did our best


Fully stuffed and a little bit loaded (‘pint of best packs a punch), we walked back to the car and headed back to Looe and a little bit of organization before bed, we head to Wales tomorrow so have to up-sticks and pack the car again.

Amazing day, even though the weather only really improved as we got home. We certainly have experienced the full gamut of Cornish weather, hopefully we will get a share of decent weather in Wales.

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Wild Weather, Fantastic Fish and a Win at “Port Wenn”

After a solid, restful sleep we awoke to the sounds of a ferocious gale and rain – unseasonal (lol, apparently) easterly winds were set in and driving rain horizontally at the mainland – lovely day to go touring we said.

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It was cold, and to be honest I would much rather have stayed in bed but we dashed to the car, got drenched and cold to the bone in the 1.5 minute journey but turned on the heater, de-mister, wipers, lights, (scuba tank) and headed out on the roads – destination, Padstow.

We had a booking with Rick Stein at noon, so we’re determined to explore the town first, this proved to be challenging as the wind and rain intensified on the northern coast of Cornwall

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The township is small but enthusiastically preparing for “May Day” by decking the quirky town lanes and local maypole with bunting and decorations in anticipation of better weather.

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It was bitterly cold, 4 degrees, and the wind chill factor made my hands burn and the rain sting. We decided to get a cup of tea (as much to warm us up as to get us out of the weather) and took refuge in a cafe for a little while. After purchasing fudge and other un-necessaries we braved the gale and got drenched again walking to Rick Steins Seafood Restaurant.

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After cloaking coats and raincoats, we were ushered into a warm glass atrium and offed menus and sherry, very warming. Today’s menu contained so many things we would have liked to try

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We made our choices, supped sherry then were shown to our table. The restaurant was elegant, relaxed and the staff made us feel very welcome.

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Our starters arrived in a timely manner and were absolutely delicious

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Jo had Goujons of Lemon Sole with a salsa verde mayonnaise and I had John Dory on leek and bacon sautée with a Beaujolais reduction. Presentation was only outdone by the taste, very yummy indeed. I would normally peel the skin off cooked fish before eating it but even that was delicious.

Our wine was lovely, I had a Pinot Grigiot and Jo had a Reisling. Plates cleared and our Mains arrived and … Wow!

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Jo had Black Bream with tomato and vanilla vinaigrette and I had baked fillet of Hake on a bed of lentils. We ordered a side of glazed carrots and another of chunky hand-cut chips (possibly the most expensive chips we have ever eaten). The meal was superb, perfectly cooked, you could taste all of the ingredients and the balance,with the wine, was sublime.

We went for complete indulgence and had dessert – Jo had vanilla cheesecake with macerated strawberries and I had the orange creme brûlée. Perfect end to a fantastic meal.

Tummies happy, merry from the wine we decided to power on and seek out the legendary “Port Wenn” of Doc Martin fame (we both loved that show). After a tiny bit of research we discover much of external location shots for this fictitious township were done at Port Isaac, so headed there.

As we arrived, the rain stopped, the wind calmed and we explored a lovely seaside village recognizing much of the town:

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The site of the “school” is actually a restaurant and gallery but easily recognizable – clever camera angles exclude surrounding buildings.

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Naturally we trudged up the hill to the ‘Docs’ place, and also poked around the many narrow, quirky side streets, taking dozens of photos to bore you with later. We gaped in the window of Mrs Tischells dispensary (a souvenir and nick nack shop), looked down on the terrace used for Large’s restaurant and generally acted like tourists, as you do. It is clear why location scouts chose this village, it is so typically Cornish fishing village

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The wind picked up, the rain returned and we retreated to the car and drove home to get warm and dry. The Port Isaac bay was protected from the wild seas by harbour walls but even in the rain and wind it was worth the visit.

Another brilliant day in sunny (not) Cornwall. More adventures tomorrow.

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Rilla Mill

Today was a rest day, so we decided to do only things that were relaxing. We decided on a walk into west Looe, mostly because we did not find a butcher during yesterday’s shopping. We took the high path and re glad that we did – high tide and my vision of a Cornish town was right there in front of us, proper job.

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Weighed down with grocery goodness, we walked back by the low road (mainly because the climb back up was beyond us), we then packed up and headed for Liskeard and Menheniot.

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My mum’s sister lives in Cornwall and. We’re off to visit as, although we had met briefly when she last visited oz, we had not seen a lot of her. We sat, we chatted, she had baked pasties (her version of them, which is different to my mums) and apparently differ again from their brothers which is all interesting. The pasty for lunch was yum (thanks Reggie)

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After lunch we went for a walk in the woods which was really lovely. It was brisk, but the “rabbit track” we followed beside a stream was interesting and studded with wildflowers.

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After a leisurely afternoon, we turned to home base to cook dinner. After chorizo pasta we headed to a local pub for a drink. I tried a Tribune Premium Cornish Ale – it was warm, well, room temperature but really hoppy and nice. Jo had a Spanish Semillon Blanc which was I characteristically sweet. All in all a nice diversion and a restful day.

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Time to veg in front of the Telly with a cup of tea and a bake well tart.

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