Hawker

Jo and I have always had a penchant for Asian food and one of the most vivid and fond memories of our last visit to Singapore was eating from street vendors called Hawkers.

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In the years since our last visit, health and zoning regulations in the city have forced these vendors to move to “Hawker Centres” which, for the visitor is much more convenient as you get a huge concentration in a small area.

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A short walk from our hotel is a harbour and marina, home to some astonishingly odd architecture (yes, that is a full sized ocean liner straddling three tower blocks … Nope, no idea either)

Nearby there is a small hawker centre and we were ready for an evening meal, having been on the plane, being severely lagged and managing only about 2 hours sleep the previous 24 hours we decided on early dinner then an attempted sleep in.

20120517-153734.jpgWe craved satay – small morsels of mystery meat (nominally chicken, pork, beef and mutton) on skewers, served with a fiery delicious peanutty sauce for dipping, cucumber, red onion and rice cakes for bulk and to quench the fire. This was perfect – we chose a modest 20 mixed sticks and followed it up with what they call fried carrot cake, which in truth is actually a preserved radish and garlic omelette, again delicious. Washed down with Tiger beer it was the perfect filler for an airline food bloated tummy.

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Parts of the city have adopted names, based in part on the predominant culture that used to populate the area. “Little India” is a melting pot of Indian, Malaysian and south east Asian cuisine, we had lunch here – a luscious duck rice, BBQ pork rice, fiery sambal, vegetarian samosa to very happy tummies.

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We walked the stalls, wondered what a lot of what was on sale actually was, dodged splatters from the open air butchers, contemplated fruits, choked on toasting chilli vapors and generally had a great time.

For the evening meal We headed to “Chinatown” hawker centre in search, initially, of mee (stir fried noodles) but got sucked in to the moment and ordered chicken rice, joining a queue of locals at Tian Tian for their signature dish

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This place was very popular, has its own Facebook presence and has branches now due to its popularity

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Chicken rice is a luscious dish comprised of the silkiest soft steamed chicken layed over a mound of rice cooked in chicken broth, a bowl of that broth as a side dish and fiery chili sambal and sweet soy so you can adjust your own seasonings. We added some Japanese style Gyoza (dumplings), tiger beer (they have large stubbies on sale) and Jo had a young coconut which was very refreshing and, Witt he supplied spoon you could spoon out the jelly-like young coconut flesh as well.

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We shared our table with a pair of locals and chatted about the cultural differences – they were surprised to see Australians at the hawker stands, in their experience it was odd to see oz tourists wiling to dive in and taste the local stuff.

More opportunities for hawker/street food to come, looking forward to it and no, no tummy troubles at all. The health regulations here are very strict, there are wash basins with soap and water handy and the loos are nearby (10c per visit, add 30c if you need paper … Too much information?)

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Tropical

To say Singapore is “tropical” is an obvious understatement, but to a pasty Brit (or rather an Aussie that has been acclimatizing to UK weather for the last 5 weeks) the climate hits you like a cricket bat. It is not really the temperature (although at the moment it is a pretty constant 30+ all the time) but the humidity that knocks you around.

Singapore is perched close to the equator and so is hot and wet pretty well the whole year round. As such, it supports lush plant growth and that is one thing we wanted to experience – where better than the Botanic Gardens, just out of town.

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We grabbed a taxi (pretty economical, S$6 ish from home base) because we did not invest any time into working out the MRT system here (am sure it is just as simple as the Metro in Paris or the Underground in London) and began meandering the acres of themed gardens, marveling at the variety of gingers, helliconia and more

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Some 25+ years ago, Jo and I had visited Singapore and had fond memories of many things, including the orchids, so we were delighted to see they had a well established and exhaustively extensive National Orchid Garden to visit

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The variety and bizarreness of orchids on show was breathtaking, given we were also gasping in the suffocating humidity the effect was doubly so

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Such lovely things, of the hundreds of photos we took, none really do justice to the vibrancy of colour and intricacy of form in this group of plants alone. It also does not help that the camera kept fogging over with each temperature variation we encountered

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We found that normal levels of activity were quite difficult, initially consuming way too little water we ended up cooked and exhausted before we re-hydrated, slowed down and stayed in the shade. The humidity does not seem to be constant – early morning (unless it is raining) is quite bearable but as soon as the sun gets up it starts. Our evening excursions have been like saunas at times, particularly in the markets and open air hawker stalls. You sweat so much (erm, sorry, Horses sweat, Men perspire, Ladies glow) that fresh fruit and tiger beer are necessary additions to your day.

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Cooling off in the pool is a luxury but wow, the “infinity” pool at our hotel gives you the feeling of floating above the city, even more spectacular by night

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Still, that is all part and parcel of the Singapore experience, right?

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Lovely Lakes

After a wet morning in Carlisle, restful scenic train trip to Settle and back (I am sure this would be spectacular in fine weather) we motored towards the Lakes District via a pass called Glenridding – wow!

I did not know what to expect with the lakes district actually, not having done much research (Jo had), we found a series of large lakes nestled high in flooded valleys between picturesque wood-clad hills that were in all honesty stunningly beautiful.

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The journey into Ambleside, our home base for 3 days was exhilarating driving to say the least – interestingly, our map labeled the route in we chose “a bit hairy”, LOL. A motorway thinned to an A road then a B road and eventually wound its way up and between terrifyingly steep slate fields as thin as a goat track with “passing areas” which were occasional road widenings barely 2 cars wide. It was tough driving because I wanted to watch the scenery but really needed to concentrate on the driving.

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We checked in to “The Retreat”, an odd upstairs self-cater flat in the middle of Ambleside, settled in and decided on a nap, both being done in. We are finding the being on the go all the time really challenging at times. With poor to intermittent wifi (a sore point as they advertised free wifi but neglected to say you needed to be in the adjacent building to get signal – hence the actual reason this blog was so late as I lost interest and concentrated on making the most of the place, sorry devoted readers).

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Ambleside is a great central base as it turns out, near the head of Lake Windemere and within cooee of most others it allowed us to venture out into the great beyond on a bunch of different levels.

We had decided in Oz that it would be cool to walk around a lake – on most it is possible but they a mostly all huge meaning the round trip would be beyond our capability. Buttermere Lake (although readers I think that “mere” means lake as most of them there either end in mere or water, so I could be saying butter lake lake for all I know) had a stated round trip of 4.5 miles, add another mile to walk to and from the distant carpark (don’t get me started on uk parking) and that is what we did one fine Saturday.

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Well defined walking paths wended along the shore of the lake, amongst forest, pebble beach, waterfall, sheep paddock, rock hewn tunnel, cliffside goat track and more. We really enjoyed the challenge, by far our furthest walk in recent times.

The scenery was stunning, there were other walkers who went extreme and forged paths up the sides of the enclosing mountains which is lovely for them but not for us. We walked from the foot to the head waters and the round the other side, losing the path for a bit but that was all part of the adventure.

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On the drive out we stopped in a layby in the most awesomely awesome mountain pass, sheer slate cliffs either side, babbling brook (well, raging arctic stream to be more precise) so we layed out our blanket and had our picnic lunch there – just amazing.

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We ventured out onto Derwentwater in a steamer (this wooden chugger of a launch, initially sitting near the front until we discovered why few rushed there as the bow spray is cold and unwelcome. I must say that I was underwhelmed – do not get me wrong, Derwentwater is as stunningly beautiful as the other lakes but I did not find the views from the water as nice as from the shore – weird I know.

Another day we set about exploring the many towns in the area, frustrated by the parking we saw a variety of places, ad tea at many, found tourist junk at most. I found the driving around the best – I have always loved driving in the country, particularly when the roads are tree lined. It is extra special to me when the trees form a canopy across the roads and that was what driving this district was like a lot of the time. This time of year (early spring) is glorious – the oak trees are just coming into leaf, the other trees are lush new greens, there are wildflowers everywhere and it was just beautiful, if a little chilly.

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People had told me I would love the Lakes District, they were right, and I could see myself revisiting it, each season would bring something new but I reckon autumn would be pretty special given how many trees are deciduous in the uk.

Our last day in the district was a rest day, but we did do a little touring and made a pilgrimage to what must the most out of the way, least signposted pub in the UK. We asked plastic patsy to take us to Cartmel Fell, and then got lost trying to find the Inn called “The Masons Arms”. After getting hopelessly lost we phoned them, they said go to a bridge we had passed earlier and look up the hill. Sure enough, an Inn stood there, nestled in surrounding woods, no signs, no advertising, no clear way to find it.

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When we got there, the place was full, dozens of people had found it before us although i am buggered if i know how. I am guessing things like Trip Advisor, word of mouth and local legend are powerful forces when you harness them for good food at a reasonable price, great selection of local ales an brilliant atmosphere. We had a brilliant lunch of game terrine, mushroom soup for starters and then steak&kidney pie and duck sausage and mash. I got to try a pint of the local dark ale, warm and sort of flat, straight from the barrel – delicious indeed.

We rolled home and began packing for our two hop flight to Singapore. Away went the bulky cold climate clothes, out came the light weight shorts and so on, as our working suitcase changed to suit the destination and our bigger one now has the woollies which is handy as they now wrap around delicate things we have bought.

We motored, mostly via motorways, to Manchester Airport, dropped off our much travelled (1980 miles, yes, we counted) blue Renault and met my Uncle Keith for a cup of tea and a chat before checking luggage, clearing customs and boarding the plane. It was nice to catch up with Keith, apparently I was a mere babe in arms when he last saw me, you get that.

Farewell UK, it has been wonderful.

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