Exploring the Cairngorms

Day tripping in Scotland is such a rich experience, and although at times the driving on single lane (with passing places) can be really hairy, there is so much worth exploring.

The countryside is ancient, with evidence of habitation going back to Neolithic times, we visited Culloden battlefields, learned of historic battles between Scottish nationals and the English. This seems to be a recurring theme in Scottish history, independence seems to continue to be relevant. Although I do not have any photos of the Culloden centre, we spent much longer there than we originally planned because it was so interesting. The visitor centre tells the history using personal stories – we loved that approach at the Irish Immigrant centre in Dublin and were swept up in it here also.

After Culloden we had a “Scottish Picnic” as we have begun to call them -we plan picnic food but when we get to the spot it is either raining, blowy or freezing – at Clava Cairns it was all three, so we ate in the car as the windows fogged over (our Scottish Picnic). Clava Cairns are a Neolithic burial and ceremonial site with fascinating piles of stones, standing stones and an atmosphere that was accentuated by a local lady who was in one of the stone circles playing a whistle “for the spirits”she said, nice.

Throughly cold, we then travelled to Glenfarcas whiskey distillery. Now to be fair, neither Jo or myself are actually whisky drinkers, but when in Scotland it seemed like we should at least try it. When on Mull I had tried 6 different whiskies and learned that with a little water or ice allows you to taste the different characters. As I understand it, the whiskey making process starts with a strong beer, then they distil the spirit alcohol from the beer, purify it and then blend it to ensure it is not lethally alcoholic then flavour it by storing it in second-hand wooden barrels that have had other booze in them before (like sherry or port) – this seems a little cheaty to me as the whisky takes on the flavour of the barrel, the longer in the more drinkable it becomes and more it costs. Wine seems to me a little more honest in this respect as the grape juice merely takes on the wood character.

We toured the Whisky factory, saw the process, saw the storage and rather nicely a vintage system that saw a 1960 barrel (our birth year) but sadly put a bottle of that slightly outside our price range (at £3650 per bottle, this seems an expensive tipple in anyone’s language – strangely Jo said no when I suggested we take home a bottle). Read more »

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The Skye is the Limit

Based as we are at Kyle of Lochalsh, the bridge to the Isle of Skye is basically walking distance from us. This morning we packaged morning tea, a couple of bottles of water and set off for the island with the view to do a little bit of exploring.

As we were on the road fairly early, traffic was light and we drove half way across the isle to stop for a stretch and photo at Sligachan Bridge, a popular camping site at the base of a mountain range oft thought of as the birthplace of modern mountain climbing. Snow covered peaks in the distance were spectacular.

We then motored on to Portree for a pit stop  before heading for our primary destination for the day – Storr. Approaching our destination, a monumental rocky outcrop emerged from a large mountainous lump, with multiple crags and spires evident, Jo then said “we are going to climb that”…. another look up and tentatively I said ok.

We were advised to park in the carpark adjacent to the entry gate, as the off season (we are sort of still in it due to unseasonal cold wet weather still) the site is likely to be less busy. Being a beautiful sunny day, every man and his dog was there, we parked a half a mile (so it seemed) away, packed some chocolate biscuits (never a need for an excuse), water bottles, rain gear (because … Scotland) in the backpack, layered up because the lazy light wind was brisk and set off. Read more »

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Lochs, Castles, Locks and a Rather Famous Viaduct

Up early on our final day on the Isle of Mull, lovely cooked breakfast and then car packed, we were off to catch a vehicular ferry at Tobermory. The local bakery made up some fantastic fresh rolls for us for lunch, then it was on to the water for a quick and spectacular journey to the mainland.

Beautifiul blue skies, water as still as glass, wow! We landed at Kilchoan and then set the satnav to point us to Glenfinnan and a view into the scenic world of Harry Potter, with a walk up to view the wonderful old viaduct used in the movie to transport the Hogwarts Express closer to its destination. Apparently some days a steam train still crosses it, we saw a couple of trains but they were more modern and seemed to be full of muggles.

After a look around, cup of tea and a bit of a refresh we hit the road again and headed to Loch Oich. Let me put it out there, I do not think Scottish are very particular about what they call a Loch. We saw puddles, huge land locked bodies of water and coastal inlets all called lochs so I am officially confused (Jo says it is not that hard to confuse me, she may be right). Some of the lochs have sensible names, others downright silly – who would call something Loch Lochie – it is like they are not even trying. Read more »

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